Scabal - tradition and innovation
Scabal's products are exclusive and made to the highest possible standards, regardless of cost. The suits and jackets are made from Scabal's own featherlight woollen fabrics and cashmeres which are extraordinarily light and fine. Scabal's customers demand nothing less than the finest quality and refinement.
This is why Scabal is constantly engaged in research for ever finer and more luxurious fibres which can be woven into their exclusive fabrics at the Scabal mill in Huddersfield, England.
This historic mill has recently invested in the most modern weaving technology available which combines uniquely with the traditional skills of this 500 year old company to produce a range of traditional and classic fabrics with the modern performance and handle necessary for today's lifestyle.
The 'fabrics race' to develop ever finer count worsted fabrics started back in 1974, when Scabal pioneered a new cloth woven from 16.5 micron wool which was finer than the then standard Super 100's which had 18 micron fibres. To distinguish it from the standard Super 100's, it was called Super 120's. Scabal was the first company to create new standards of fineness with its Super 120's, and later with its Super 150's.
In 1991, Scabal was the first on the market to develop Golden Carat, a Super 150's cloth. Later, it became possible to process 13.8 micron wool, which Scabal called Super 180's Miracle and Obsession. More recently, Scabal's scientists have developed Exceptional, a top level Super 200's category fine fabric made from rare Australian wool with the exceptional fineness of close to 13 microns.
However, Scabal's latest development is Gold Treasure fabric, made of 22 Carat Gold and fine count Super 150's from a rare 15.5 micron bale of Australian Merino Wool.
This tradition of innovation gives Scabal a unique record as a pioneer, always in search of new frontiers.
Super 180's - Miracle and Obsession
Miracle not only offers the fineness of a Super 180's, it is also available as medium weight 320 g fabric which delivers a more substantial feel and means that the comfort of a Super 180's can be enjoyed all year long. Its super smooth touch is equal, if not superior, to that of the finest pure cashmere. Miracle has all the advantages of pure virgin wool such as easy tailoring and the resilience and dependability needed for an active and modern lifestyle.
Obsession is also a Super 180's offering the typical extremely soft feel and unequalled comfort of top-class cashmere as well as the reliability of Australian Merino wool. Its major difference from Miracle is its weight, just 220 g per square metre.
Super 200's - Exceptional
A recent technological breakthrough by Scabal's scientists has allowed the production of woollen yarn in the 13 micron range and resulted in the development of Exceptional Super 200's.
This is a top level fine woollen fabric which matches, if not surpasses, cashmere for softness, while retaining all the practical properties unique to genuine virgin wool. As wool this fine is truly exceptional and difficult to obtain, there is only enough wool available worldwide to produce a limited quantity in each pattern.
Gold Treasure Anno DominI 2005:
Scabal is Going Straight for Gold
It was at the end of 1999 that Scabal first brought out the 'Gold Treasure' cloth, an ultra-fine Super 150's, originating from an exceptional bale of Australian merino wool and enriched with a 22 carat gold thread. A fine example of technical ingenuity, the production secret of which has been carefully kept secret.
Given its tremendous worldwide success, Scabal is now launching six brand new 'Gold Treasure' designs. They are still in black, anthracite black and midnight blue, colours which all enhance the gold thread to the maximum. Given the fact that Scabal is always striving for further improvements, this new luxury cloth range contains more gold thread than the previous collection.
The full Gold Treasure collection consists of 12 different designs. The patterns are developed in-house, and the quality production takes place in England using age-old techniques of true craftsmanship. This cloth is available to clients who wish to own a truly exceptional and unique suit.
In Cashmere fabrics, Scabal developed Fascination in 1993, which enables suits of the lightest possible weight to be made. Scabal's next innovation was Denim Pure Cashmere in 1999. The intention was to develop a denim cloth, with its reputation for hard wearing endurance, into the most luxurious Denim fabric ever, by replacing the sturdy cotton yarns with the finest pure cashmere. This would turn a cloth that is known for its tough handling qualities into a luxury fabric that is rare, comfortable and very exclusive. The Denim Pure Cashmere fabric is especially used for jackets.
The secret of the dependable performance of this pure cashmere summer weight fabric is the solid 2-Ply twist construction and the ingenious plain weave that takes full advantage of the extraordinary lightness of the cashmere fibre. The smart concept that makes us enjoy comfortable lightweights during cold winter months, can also be reversed by creating a cashmere fabric that is also a super lightweight, designed for hot summer months as it is slimmed down to a weight of only 200 gm. The pure cashmere fabric has of course the typical soft handle but the flexible high twist construction has also a slight feel of undercover crispness and under pressure shows off its many built-in practical qualities. In addition to a selection of fine stripes, there are also very delicate two by two ground designs and a range of plains which also includes the all important beige shades which with their nostalgic touch are one of the great fashion shades of the new season.
To offer Scabal's prestigious worsted fabric family, the exclusive Super 150's, in even greater variety and with a more glamorous look, Scabal has created an exciting new fabric called DIAMOND CHIP that adds genuine diamond fragments to Super 150's wool yarns and pure silk.
The key to success was not only to procure the right kind of diamond fragments from a renowned diamond cutter in Antwerp but to pioneer a reliable production process that would blend diamond fragments with very fine light weight wool.
This has been achieved by dispersing prior to the spinning process diamond fragments onto the wool, which had already been cleaned and combed but not yet spun into yarn.
The result is a lustrous yarn, fully blended with the diamond fragments, ready to be used in the production of the spectacular new DIAMOND CHIP fabric. Like any Scabal engineered fabric however, DIAMOND CHIP offers not only good looks but also the comfort and dependable performance of a modern worsted cloth.
Scabal is not given to resting on its laurels. We have always made a tradition of setting the boundaries of the technically possible, without stinting on quality. For some considerable time now, Scabal has toyed with the idea of comining the finest silk and the finest wool in a single fabric. This ambition has now become a reality. This fabric, which is the successful result of two years of research, is called Inspiration.
This is the first time that a wool in the 13 micron range has been woven together with an 11 micron silk, yielding an exceptional fineness which is genuinely at the oultermost limits of the possible. the result is a fabric which literally and figuratively shines and which exudes boundless comfort and unadulterated luxury.
The amount of wool and silk available with the fineness necessary for the production of Inspiration is -even on world scale - extremely limited. For this reason, the collection comprises only 12 shades, ranging from grey to brown via blue. Inspiration will be obtainable from 1 November 2001 from the more prestigious tailors.
Scabal is again due to present a new fabric: Temptation. This is the first time that a Super 200's and Vicuña have been woven to create a lightweight fabric with unparalleled comfort and softness. What is special about the fabric is its exceptional fineness, its natural character, its lightness, its softness, its beautiful drape and its crease-resistant properties.
Vicuña is the nec plus ultra of woollen fabrics and is four times more expensive than cashmere. This is due to its rarity and its luxurious characteristics. The wool is obtained from the Vicuña llama, which is a rare and protected animal that lives in herds in the Andes at a height of 5000 metres above sea level. The wool from the vicuņa has always been a rare and expensive commodity. Ten thousand years ago, at the time of the Incas, wearing clothes made from vicuņa wool was a privilege reserved only for the Inca leader. And Vicuña was also referred to as "the fabric of the gods".
The Vicuña wool used by Scabalfor its Temptation range comes from the most expensive part of the llama - i.e. the short downy hairs underneath the llama's breast. These hairs have a diameter of less than 10 microns and are barely 20 to 35 mm in length. The original chestnut brown colour is carefully dyed in order to be able to obtain the grey and blue shades required.
The Super 200's material is made from exclusive, Australian fine wool, which is characterised, among other things, by its fineness, its strength and its purity of colour. The name Super 200's refers to the fineness of the wool and is the international designation given to woollen yarns finer than 13.5 microns. 1 micron is one thousandth of a millimetre. Fabric made from this wool quickly recovers its shape, has a luxurious aspect and feels extremely comfortable. Both woollen threads are spun by the best spinners in England and are woven in a weaving mill that is capable of handling such fine yarns.
Temptation is available in ten designs and traditional stripes with colour variations of grey and blue shades. This pearl among fabrics will undoubtedly be a success with the demanding customer, who loves discrete luxury.
After incorporating both gold and diamonds in its cloths, Scabal is proud to introduce today lapis lazuli, an ancient stone that has always appealed to man's imagination.
Lapis lazuli - literally "blue stone" has been extracted and revered for more than 6000 years. In ancient Mesopotamia this stone was the reserve of the ruling class. It was the Romans who gave it its present name: "lapis", which means stone in Latin; "lazuli" is a deformation of azul, which is the Arab word for blue and has been handed down to us via the Spanish language and the Moorish occupation of the Iberian peninsula. Since time immemorial lapis lazuli has been known for its therapeutic properties. It is said that this stone has a beneficial effect on the immune system.
Lapis lazuli was also appreciated for its aesthetic characteristics. From the fifteenth to the mid nineteenth century it formed the basis of ultramarine, an intense blue that decorated many paintings and frescos during the Renaissance. Using ultramarine was considered as being a sign of wealth.
Today lapis lazuli is used in jewelry and in alternative therapies, both of a physical and a spiritual nature, to counteract throat infections or to heal dysfunctions of the spinal cord, the thymus and the immune system. It is considered to be the stone of total conscience, which opens the third eye and enhances the mental faculties. In astrology, lapis lazuli is associated with Sagittarius.
At first sight, precious stones and wool of the highest quality have only little in common. Unless, of course, Scabal endeavours to establish this association. Scabal has succeeded in integrating microscopic particles of lapis lazuli in an ultra-fine bale of wool from Australia. This Super 150's of average weight (280 g) can be worn all year round and has some special characteristics. It offers optimum fibre length, shrinkage and superior forming. The cloth has a paper press finish, which gives the finished product a natural shine and a unique appearance. As always with Scabal, the production process for an exceptional cloth is the result of the combination of the latest techniques and mechanical applications, on the one hand, and manual craftsmanship, on the other. The stone has been reduced to microscopic particles by a process of polishing, which is a technique used exclusively in jewelry-making until now. The microscopic particles of lapis lazuli are evenly distributed by hand at the end of the weaving process and are then captured by the straightened fibres and integrated harmoniously in the cloth.
Scabal pays tribute to Salvador Dalí
May 2004 marked the 100th anniversary of the birth of the artistic genius Salvador Dalí. Scabal wanted to pay tribute in its own way to this Spanish artist, who took the world by storm with his daring, imagination and talent.
Scabal has a thing about art. We have broken new ground in the field of fabric design with the independent spirit of an artist. In the heydays of "fast fashion", Scabal continued to defend the made-to-measure suit as the highest form of clothes culture. It seemed to be a matter of fighting windmills. And yet time has shown Scabal was right. Scabal's quality fabrics and Scabal suits are appreciated the world over, now more than ever.
Scabal also has a thing about Dalí, one of the most talented surreal and self-willed artists of the 20th century. The link with Dalí goes beyond a shared philosophy. Dalí, the ultimate dandy himself, loved suits and cloths. "Whilst studying Fine Art, I acquired a taste for fashion. I wore the most elegant suits, a cultured pearl necklace, bracelets and silk shirts, which I had designed, with puff sleeves that gave me a feminine look. The age of the dandy had begun, and for me it was never to end."
More than thirty years ago, Scabal commissioned Dalí to make 12 paintings about his view of clothes of the then still futuristic 3rd millennium. Dalí's proposition was that all styles would co-exist peacefully so that every person would be able to individualise his or her own look, as would have done Dalí himself.
The 12 paintings that Dalí made for Scabal inspired Scabal's fabric designers to create 12 comparable fabrics. Each of Dalí's paintings was abstract in a striking way. What at first glance looks like a classic light fabric turns out on closer inspection to be a play of irregular stripes and daring colour accents. "We went to work more frivolously than we usually do," says Michael Day from Scabal's creative department. We wanted to faithfully reproduce the innovative and groundbreaking character of Dalí's style in this collection. The fabric is a Super 120's wool with cashmere and has a weight of 320gram. We deliberately kept it affordable because we think that every loyal Scabal customer should be able to share the enjoyment of this tribute to Dalí."
This fabric collection, which has been called simply "Tribute to Dalí", has been presented in an international avant-première at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence last June 2004.
Kharisa: an exceptionally soft story
Scabal is always aiming higher and pushing the limits in developing prestigious and unique qualities. Therefore, it is always looking for exceptional materials. In 2005, Scabal has launched its latest luxury cloth called "Kharisa".
Scabal purchased in March 2003 an exceptional bale of mohair from the Camdeboo region in South Africa. It is the finest and most expensive mohair ever produced in the world. This mohair is called "Kharisa", which means "extremely soft" in local dialect. The fibre of the Kharisa bale measures an average of 21 micron (1 micron= 0.001 mm). For comparison, an average kid mohair measures between 25 and 36 micron. It is not only the fineness that makes this Kharisa bale so exceptional, but also its sheen and its firmness. The Kharisa fibre has other qualities: it keeps the skin extremely cool, repels dirt and does not give off fluff or crease.
These qualities were obtained through stringent genetic selection of the goat variety in the course of a century. Climate and nature did the rest. The goats run around freely in the open air. Before being sheared, they are carefully washed and dried in the sun. Afterwards, the wool is packed with the utmost care and stored in germ-free surroundings.
Mohair, which comes from the Angora goat, is one of man's oldest fibres. It was first used 3,400 years ago. The best quality mohair comes from a region of the world that anthropologists call the cradle of the human race: the Camdeboo region. It is a desolate area in South Africa where the Bushmen live in harmony with untamed nature.
Scabal has succeeded to blend this exceptional fine and soft Kharisa fibre into a beautiful cloth which will undoubtedly be appreciated by men who go for comfort and pure luxury without showing off. This is also Scabal's philosophy.
The Kharisa collection
Scabal's Kharisa is composed of 40% from a Super 180's wool and for 60% of Kharisa mohair. It weighs 240 grams and is available in ten different designs, each with its own style and characteristics. Colours vary from light grey to black over dark blue. Kharisa is available immediately from a limited number of exclusive locations worldwide.
Summit: Pinnacle of Fineness
Scabal is always aiming higher and pushing the limits and has played a pioneers role in the development of prestigious and unique qualities. Scabal is therefore extremely proud to announce the arrival of a unique and exceptional cloth, Summit. We searched the world for the finest possible wool, found it in Australia and created a cloth worthy of the name Summit. This cloth is so fine to touch that Scabal's own technicians immediately classified it as a Super 250's. Summit is woven from an extremely ultra-ultra fine fibre. The wool is consistent along its length and deserves nothing but the finest treatment. To maintain its natural qualities, it was an obvious choice not to blend the wool with other luxury fibres. The result of this cloth is due to the ultra-fine wool, which has high strength, incomparable lustre and a natural comfort, which is due to the fibres' wave-like crimps.
To preserve the natural qualities of Summit, the wool has been meticulously processed using traditional artisan methods in Scabal's own mill in Huddersfield, England. From cleaning through spinning to a medium count of two nineties (2/90) and weaving to final finishing, no effort has been spared. There are of course limits to the processing of such fine fibres. Scabal was however the first to launch a Super 150's, 180's and 200's. Today, Scabal is taking it one step further with Summit, a cloth produced with a technical tour de force that previously did not seem possible.
Summit is a cloth in a medium all-year round weight of 280 g/m and gives the ultrafine wool a full, rich and flowing handle. Traditional processing follows Summit to the very end, with a unique paper pressing for comfort, drape and easy tailoring. Summit is 100% wool with a handle and feel to rival cashmere and an elegant, natural drape that truly does make it the ultimate choice for the connoisseur. Summit exists in 14 designs and is available immediately in the 65 countries where Scabal has a presence. A Summit cutlength is delivered in an exclusive red luxury box with a special woven label, seal, certificate an buttons.
Your Personal Message Weaved Into Fabric
It is a well-known fact that Scabal is a manufacturer of prestigious fabrics for men and offers a wide variety of qualities and designs. Customers can make their selection from among thousands of fabrics and numerous designs and details. Luxury quality and finishes, with a personal touch; this is what drives Scabal. Scabal is taking personalisation just one step further.
As of now, there is the possibility of weaving a name or a message into the fabric. This new collection has very appropriately been named "Private Line". In this very elegant way, Scabal is implementing the general trend for increased personalization.